Backpacking
Fording is not something often done on the Appalachian Trail. A ford is when you are crossing a river, and it is shallow enough for you to wade across.
Maine is where most hikers encounter their first ford. When I hiked through Maine almost every ford was so low that it was possible to stone hop my way across. My hiking partner and I passed every ford this way, each time feeling lucky that we didn’t have to get our clothing wet. Most hikers know about the fords well in advance, and are not excited about the prospect of getting wet, especially in Maine in October.
Maine in October is pretty cold by the way…
We thought we were in the clear and continued on our merry way entering the 100-mile wilderness and quickly approaching Katahdin and the end of our hike. Five miles short of the base of the mountain hikers cross over the Nesowadnehunk Stream. On the day we reached it, it had been raining heavily all night and the river was swollen and raging.
Just before reaching the river there had been a high-water bypass trail but we ignored it. We could have gone back to it, but being typical thru hikers, going back the ¼ mile to go around was out of the question. I waded up to my waist before I realized I would be swept away if I went further. In the end I used some boulders and a very slippery tree branch to precariously pick my way across. Ford semi-avoided.
Afterwards, the sun started to poke through the clouds and even though my feet were soaked, I was happy to be close to my final destination. Had I taken the time to read the guidebook that morning, however, I would have seen that the high-water bypass trail took you around not one but two fords.
Oops.
Finally a REAL ford
By the time we reached the second ford, it was too late, we had to go across.
This one was wider and deeper. A few hikers with long legs were able to make it across a very treacherous looking rock hop that I did not want to risk. Slipping on a rock meant falling in and soaking my belongings, and a possible injury. I looked around the river for about 45 minutes, walking up and down the shore-line, through bushes and over trees, for a possible crossing.
About 100 yards upstream I found a spot where the water was calm, but deep. I was irritated and just wanted to get across so I decided that this was my best shot. I took off my pack and shirt and held them above my head with one arm as I probed the depth of the water with my trekking pole in the other. Slowly I made my way across as the water level rose up to my chest. On the opposite side was a steep bank and I had to throw my pack up onto shore and use a tree root to haul myself out of the water.
There are a few times towards the end of a thru hike when you realize just how mentally tough and physically fit you have become as a result of walking through the wilderness for six months. You feel that you are in the best shape of your life and literally nothing can stop you because you now are so strong and powerful.
Even in the midst of something so suckish as wading through freezing chest deep water, there is a raging lunatic deep inside you that is having the time of their life.
When I reached the other side of the shore I let that raging lunatic free, whooping and yelling with a smile on my face. I realized that I was a super-woman. Never had I felt like such a badass. The temperature was in the fifties, yet here I was, hauling myself out of an icy cold river in shorts and a sports bra. Wet and triumphant I rejoined my group as we continued at breakneck speed to our campsite at the base of Katahdin.
Bears are not the biggest danger on the AT
People like to ask me what the scariest thing that happened to me on the trail was. They have visions of me fighting off bears or running away from crazy hill people. First off, in my experience bears are super terrified of people. I saw 3 or 4 bears on the entire trail and they all took off as fast as their fat paws could take them. I managed to get a butt shot of one as it was running away. Oh, and the only crazy hill people I saw also happened to be the same people that I was hiking with, myself included.
The scariest things out there are the ones you can’t control
The most dangerous and scary thing that happened to me on the trail had to do with the weather. During a thru hike,  you realize that there is nothing you can do about cruddy weather. You are going to get wet no matter what and you just keep marching on. We faced rain and sleet in the Smokies, high winds in the Whites, thunderstorms in the Summer, and rain all the time. In the mid-atlantic in the summertime thunderstorms are a common occurrence. You can always tell when a thunderstorm is brewing. You watch the sky get dark and feel the wind pick up. The air seems heavy and you wonder where you will be when the storm hits. Most times there is no where to go, you are in the wilderness and the most you can hope is that you are under tree cover when the lightning starts.
Besides that, there is often no where to go. Nowhere to run and hide, no shelter to keep you safe and dry. This equates to a complete and utter feeling of helplessness. There is a thump in your chest when you realize that there is nothing you can do. You have to face the elements and take what it has to give you. We had hiked in thunderstorms over mountains, through valleys and fields, none of which are recommended, but we did it anyway, and we were fine. With those experiences behind us we felt like we could brave any weather.
The Situation
It was early July and the days were hot and long.  During this time most thru hikers are somewhere in the lowlands between West Virginia and New York. In Summer, thru hikers enjoy lighter packs and combined with flat terrain, BIG miles. No mountains to climb. light and fast. 20 plus miles a day.
Mac and I had made our way to Tumbling Run shelters  in southern Pennsylvania. It was a nice area with two small 4-person lean-tos and a covered picnic table. It was around dinner time we decided it would be no problem to stop and eat before continuing on another 7 miles before calling it quits for the day. There had been reports from day hikers of possible thunderstorms in the evening, but we had some serious ground to make up.
Recently we had been on a mission. When checking the shelter logs, we could see that a group of our friends were only about 10 miles ahead. We hadn’t seem them for over a month and we were hot on their trail. There was only one problem, when you are trying to catch up with someone that is 10 miles ahead of you and also hiking 20 miles a day, it can be tough or almost impossible to catch them.
As we were eating our customary mac and cheese with tuna, the shelter caretakers showed up with some trail magic. Cold soda and some snacks. Amazing. We chatted with them a bit and they confirmed that the weather was supposed to turn bad. As we spoke we looked up at the sky and saw that there were dark clouds coming towards us from the West.
Mac and I discussed our plan. It was too early to stop for the day and besides we were trying to catch our buddies! A little rain wouldn’t kill us.
Braving the Storm
As we were getting ready to leave, the storm was visibly closer. Heavy air and dark clouds. I set off first because Mac was still eating. He was faster than me so i knew he would catch up fairly quickly. I was moving fast hoping we may be able to outrun the worst of it. About 1/4 mile from the shelter the wind started to blow faster. We had hiked in the rain so many times before, and this would be no different I told myself. It was hot out and the rain would feel good. By the time we reached the next shelter our clothes would be as dry as they were like to get this time of year.
As I hiked the trail took me upwards at a manageable incline. The wind blew again, this time harder, and I prepared myself for a heavy rain. It would hit any minute now and I thought about putting on my pack cover. I looked to the West and was a little nervous when I saw how quickly the storm was rushing towards me. A curtain of grey was speeding at me so fast that I was afraid it would knock me over. I panicked. There was no time for rain jackets or pack covers. There was no time for anything. The only thing I could think to do was hug the nearest tree and brace for impact. I threw myself at a large tree on my left just as the rain hit. Sheets of water poured from the sky and the wind seemed to create a vortex around me. I had been wrong, there was something different about this storm. It’s veracity, its speed, the wind and the sheer amount of rain. As the first wave hit, leaves and sticks began to fall, then branches, then bigger branches until it seemed that I had been enveloped in a whirlwind of falling trees.
I couldn’t continue on. Up ahead I heard crashes as trees fell. It was too dangerous. A gust of wind tore a branch off of my tree, whipping it across the trail. In a few short seconds the trail became covered in branches and debris. I looked back the way I had come and realized that I could make a run for the shelter I had just come from. I was about 1/4 mile away and it was all downhill. I looked and listened for falling branches and trees. The rain was blinding and the wind threatened to bowl me over.  I ran, or more like flew. I used my trekking poles to vault over obstacles easily covering 5 foot distances one leap at a time.
The Comfort of a Roof
I saw the shelter through the trees as I reached the bottom of the hill. I whipped around a turn and threw myself inside. Mac was waiting and he looked at me wide eyed.
“Thank god you had the same idea as me, I didn’t wanna hike in this,” he laughed.
I looked back at him completely out of breath.
“Are you okay?” he asked.
I took a minute to think about what had happened and decided to respond in the most level headed and realistic way I could.
“I almost just died! Trees were falling everywhere around me!”
Okay, so I may have exaggerated a little. Maybe I didn’t almost die, but my adrenaline was turned up to a hundred and I had been terrified. Mac and I made the decision to spend the night at the shelter. We watched the rest of the storm under the roof of the tiny 4-person shelter with two other hikers.
The next day as we hiked, we kicked branches out of our way and climbed over and around massive fallen trees. We made it to Caledonia State Park, excited to destroy their concession stand, only to find that they had lost power due to the storm. Concessions were closed. We were devastated. They were throwing away perfectly good food that needed to be kept cold. A dumpster full of food can look like a buffet to a hungry hiker…Ash but that’s a story for another time.
So, whats your scariest or most dangerous hiking moment?
Long distance hiking provides some unique challenges and circumstances that require a few subtle but important differences in the type of gear one might bring along. Here is some of the gear that I considered essential on my Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike, and what I thought about it in the end. Some might be obvious, and some not so much.
Related Gear Posts:
- Complete Women’s Hiking and Backpacking Gear List
- Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike Backpacking Gear List – Before and After
- Choosing a Women’s Sleeping bag | Everything You Need to Know
Warm Sleeping Bag
Warmth vs Weight vs Money is the thru-hikers eternal struggle
Hikers can save weight and money by purchasing a sleeping bag that is rated for warmer weather.
I knew, however, that I wouldn’t be able to make it through this hike unless I was comfortable when I was sleeping. For my sleeping bag I went with the REI Joule 23 degree bag — a women specific bag, which means that the temperature rating was pretty accurate for me.
It has water resistant down insulation, so it is lightweight but not as susceptible to damp conditions as down would normally be. It also has waterproof material around the edges where it’s most likely to touch a damp tent. Even though I am a cold sleeper I was generally warm and cozy. When it would rain all night, and the tent soaked through, I stayed dry.
A Comfortable Sleeping Pad
For my sleeping pad I was willing to sacrifice more weight for a comfortable nights sleep.
I got a Klymit Static V Insulated Sleeping Pad . It is 2 inches wider than a standard pad and has some insulation to keep me warmer on cold nights. It turned out to be very comfortable and never punctured.
On the coldest nights, cool air would seep through around my hips, but that was my only complaint. If i were to do it again I may opt for a standard sized insulated air pad that weighed a bit less. I’d also go for a women’s specific sleeping pad, because they typically have more insulation around the hip.
Water Filter (Sawyer Mini)
Some view water filtration as a non-essential item. I disagree. Vomiting and worms are among what can await you if you decide not to filter water.
For my water purification I new I wanted a filter versus purifying drops because I wanted clean and clear looking water. The Sawyer Mini is one of the lightest weight filter options and also one of the cheapest.
I started my hike with an MSR pump filter. When the filter started to have some issues, I realized that the repair kit was the same price as buying a brand new sawyer mini! While the mini does tend to filter slower than other options, its price and weight made it worth the purchase.
Smartwater Bottles
When a Nalgene bottle became too heavy, and when my Sawyer Squeeze and Platypus bags failed, my Smartwater bottle was there for me. Smartwater is a disposable water bottle that you can buy at almost any grocery store. It’s made of a thicker plastic that normal disposable bottles, which makes it extra durable, and if it breaks its super easy to find another!
People using the Sawyer Mini found these bottles especially helpful for a few reasons. The sawyer screws perfectly into the threads of the bottle. The long and thin shape of the bottle helps it fit into packs easier. Its super lightweight, and a hard plastic bottle is easier to fill from the filter than a soft collapsable bottle. By the end of the trail almost everyone using a Sawyer Mini had converted to using Smartwater bottles.
Plastic Bags
Yep, good old plastic bags from the grocery store. Many thru hikers today tend to hike in non-waterproof trail runners. The are nice and light and breathable. Your feet and socks are getting wet no matter what you do, so trail runners just make sense. There are some times, however, when you need to stay dry.
If you are planning on encountering snow, a plastic bag over the socks can help your feet from getting wet and freezing. They are also nice to have if you are not planning on carrying camp shoes. Once I ditched my camp shoes, I realized that if my shoes were wet in town or at the end of the day, I could still put on a clean pair of socks and plastic bags and I stayed happy and dry.
Lightweight Cook System
Some hikers choose to completely forego any type of cook system in order to save weight.
My system was comprised of a lightweight alcohol stove made from a soda can, a plastic container to carry fuel, a Snow Peak 900ml titanium cook pot, a windscreen, and a titanium spork. While these items alone weigh very little, they can add up, especially when I was carrying a full container of fuel. Cooked meals, however, were extremely important to me. Being able to look forward to a warm meal every night, and going to sleep with a happy and full tummy helped me to get through the toughest days.
The A.T. Guide Book
This book is probably the number one essential piece of gear for any Appalachian Trail thru hike. It was my eyes. Without this guide I would have been hiking blind onto each road crossing and town. This isn’t the only thru hiker guide out there, but it is the most widely used one currently.
You can get this year’s A.T. Guide here.
It described where towns were in relation to the trail and included maps of the towns. It also showed distances between landmarks on the trail and an elevation profile. Without my guide I wouldn’t have known how to plan between resupplies or even where to stop for the day. I cuddled it to sleep some nights.
Goldbond
Goldbond was essentially my entire first aid kit. By the time July rolled around I had gotten rid of all my band aids, athletic tape and pretty much everything else that you may find in a sane persons first aid kit. What remained was a lot of advil and a huge container of Goldbond. duing the summer months I was sweating so much that I was chaffed pretty much everywhere. Goldbond saved me. I love you Goldbond.
Bug Spray
Many people are against spraying harsh plastic-melting chemicals onto their bare skin and possibly inhaling them in the process. Well, if I had to drink those chemicals to escape the buggy hell that was the northeast in July, I would have. Because when you have to choose between chemicals and losing your sanity, I chose chemicals.
Phone with extra Battery
My phone was not only my phone but also my camera, books, music and much more. When you are hiking ten hours a day, things can get pretty monotonous. Listening to audio books, podcasts and music helped me to space out and do work son! To make sure that I always had enough battery life
I chose to use a Mophie case which can be charged at the same time as your phone and provide 100% additional battery life. The Mophie wasn’t fool proof as the charge died away in cold conditions and would sometimes switch on without me knowing. I rarely actually got a full 100% charge out of it, but it did what I needed it to and also was a pretty hearty protective case as well.
So there are some of my most essential items for an Appalachian Trail Thru Hike. What are yours???
Not quite a hotel, hostels are a place where a traveler can rest for cheap. It usually involves bunk rooms, communal showers, and a caretaker that can make or break your stay.
Hostels are placed all along the AT corridor in towns both big and small. They are an alternative to a hotel when there are none, or if you are trying to save money. Some will even give you discounts if you need to stay multiple days due to an injury.
The hostels on the AT are specially suited for hikers. Often they will sell gear or food that hikers are looking for. Some even offer shuttles and options to slackpack (they hold on to your gear while you hike).
Each hostel is vastly different. They will cost anywhere between nothing and 50 per night, with most being somewhere in between.
Top of Georgia Hostel
My first impression of a hostel was in Hiawassee, GA at the newly opened Top of Georgia Hostel. A short walk from the trail, it seemed like the easiest option for someone still learning the ins and outs of hiking the trail. Unfortunately my first impression was not a good one. With an extremely overbearing owner and strict shuttle schedules to go into town, I was stressed out and annoyed.
Standing Bear
Luckily I decided to give hostels another chance. Coming out of Great Smoky Mountain National Park hikers are exhausted and starving. Most have spent the better part of 5 or 6 days hiking on some of the toughest terrain thus far on the trail. I was in need of a rest and was excited to reach Standing Bear Hostel.
Few things could have prepared me for this rustic experience. Standing bear is an old farmstead converted into a hostel. There are freestanding buildings that got converted into bunkrooms, outdoor showers, and a basin to hand wash your laundry. Chickens and dogs (and hikers) roam freely about the property.
Mountain Harbour B&B
Just outside of Roan Mountain, TN we were told to visit Mountain Harbour B&B/Hostel. The word on the trail was that this place had the best breakfast the world had to offer.
The weather was nice so we decided to save money by taking a camp site on their property. We set up our tents next to a quiet stream and commenced our nightly chores. In the morning we headed up to the main house for breakfast.
We had been hiking for just about 2 months at this point and I can only describe this from the POV of someone that has been living in the WOODS .We entered the owners living room where the air was warm (HEAT!!!) and the TV was playing (the WEATHER CHANNEL!). On the tables sat REAL silverware, dishes and glasses!
I poured myself a cup of coffee and watched as a woman (angel?) prepared a feast. To this day I swear that this is one of the best breakfasts I have ever eaten. If I could one day be as good of a cook as this woman, my life would be complete.
The goodies included, (all made from scratch BTW), home fries, biscuits, gravy, eggs, corn tamales (baked in the husk) rhubarb jelly, pancakes, apple butter, and breakfast tacos with sausage.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. In fact I would hike the 400 miles from Springer Mountain to experience that breakfast again.
Chet's Place
There are some people that offer places to stay for free. One of my favorites was Chet’s Place in Lincoln, NH. Not listed in any guide books, you have to rely on locals and other hikers to guide you there.
After 2 days in the park I found myself exhausted and for the first time thinking about quitting. The Whites were ripping me a new one. After reaching Chet’s place we decided to take a whole day off. Chet was accommodating and kind and just what I needed to recover and get my ass back on the trail.
The Farmhouse Hostel
A few weeks later we came across The Farmhouse Hostel in Rangeley, Maine. It is a new hostel (as of 2014), run by Stacy and Shane, two of the nicest people you will ever meet. For a decent price they can boast some of the nicest accommodations on the trail.
Comfy beds with white sheets (yes they trust us hikers with WHITE sheets!), and a full kitchen complete with utensils and other cookware. They offer slackpacking and shuttles into Rangeley. The only bad part was having to leave!
Upper Goose Pond Cabin
While not really a hostel, I want to mention Upper Goose Pond Cabin in Massachusetts. Only accessible by hiking in, this AMC run "shelter" has bunks with mattresses and a seasonal caretaker that makes pancakes!
Those are some of my most memorable hostel experiences. There are many hostels along the trail that I didn't get to experience, but I'm sure that are all equally as memorable. The only way to know is to get out there and see for yourself!
It was cold. Very cold. The night before entering Maine, the Rough Ryders and a few others crammed into a small shelter on the eastern edge of New Hampshire. As the sun set the temperature dropped. Flecks of rain turned into sleet.
It was only mid-September and the day before had been bright and sunny. We’d been relaxing and playing soccer in the town of Hanover. Jackets had been mailed ahead and a chance to buy warmer clothes passed up. As we sat shivering in the shelter that night, one thought was prevalent; we should have finished this trip sooner. But as we would find out in the next 3 weeks, our timing couldn’t have been more perfect.
Appalachian Trail in Maine – 300 Miles Remain
The next day we entered Maine in frigid temperatures. Bundled in all of the clothes we had, our trail family, made up of 7 now, sat around the signpost that welcomed us to Maine as we ate lunch. That day ended up being a short one. The following day we were heading for the Mahoosic Notch, notoriously known as the most difficult mile on the entire trail.
With such cold and rainy temperatures, this mile of trail threatened to be miserable. Or it could have been. That morning was slightly warmer and the ground was dry. Heading into the notch with all of my friends made it feel more like a playground than the death trap that it was.
And so we went. Those first few days in Maine set the stage for the rest of our trip. We stayed together with our trail family. Even the worst days were made better by the fact that we had a supportive community of friends all around us.
To raise eachother’s spirits, we took to walking in a large group and took turns telling movies from start to finish.
Maine in the Fall
The cold weather gave way to some warmer days. The leaves began to change. As we neared the end of our journey falls colors were in full array. After 2000 miles and countless views we would look around at a sea of color and still be amazed. The beautiful views of orange and red made us realize that our timing couldn’t have been better. Finishing earlier would have meant missing the beauty of fall in Maine.
Summiting Mount Katahdin after 6 Months of Hiking
On October 6th, the Rough Ryders consisting of Mac, Hustle and Flow, Tinder and Birch, Snorlax, and Myself, joined by SugarDaddy (Andrew!) summited Mount Katahdin. As we neared the top everybody stopped to wait and make sure that the whole group could summit at the same time.
Sugar Daddy had brought us a giant bottle of champagne. There were many people at the summit, thru and day hikers alike. Everyone stepped aside to watch as I shook the bottle and attempted to pop the cork. I took a second to look around at all of the faces. I saw friends and strangers and everyone with a smile on their face. Afterwards, there were hugs, congratulations, many many pictures, and some tears.
Over the next few days, we said goodbye to our friends. It was not easy to say goodbye to the people that had become our family. We had woken up with the same group every day for the last month and a half and had been together on the good days and the bad, the tough climbs and the easy downhills. We had spent hours hiking together in a straight line telling stories and reciting our favorite movies. We had worked together to complete one of the biggest accomplishments of our lives.
Celebrating our Accomplishment
In the video, I open a bottle of champagne while a park ranger cheers me on.
In recent years, the practice of opening a bottle of champagne on Mount Katahdin has become somewhat controversial. Some were cited for littering because of it.
So, while I no longer encourage the practice, it doesn’t stop the moment in the video below from being one of the happiest moments in my life.
I want to say thank you to everyone who helped me accomplish this goal. Friends, family, the Rough Ryders, and a very special thank you to my very supportive husband Andrew and to my amazing hiking partner Kyle. Without you guys, this would not have been possible. THANK YOU!!!
I wrote this post about hiking through White Mountain National Forest while thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail! At this point, I was about 1700 miles and 5 months into my journey with another month left to go.
By far, my favorite part of hiking through the White Mountains was Franconia Ridge. A totally exposed section of trail that is way above the tree line, this hike makes you feel like you’re on the West coast.
I enjoyed this part of the hike so much, that I returned there a year and a half later to do the Franconia Ridge loop. Below is a map of the Franconia Ridge loop on gaiagps.com. If you ever have a chance to hike this loop I highly recommend it, but make sure you start early in the day as it’s a long uphill hike!
Related posts about hiking:
- Exploring Ice Caves and Hiking on Mendenhall Glacier
- Complete Women’s Hiking and Backpacking Gear List
- Pinnacle and Pulpit Rock Loop Hamburg, PA
We have made it through the White Mountain National Forest!
White Mountain National Forest has been looming over us for months. We have heard stories of how difficult the hiking would be, but we have also had five months to prepare.
Even with 4 months of preparation, hiking every day for up to 20 miles per day, this section of trail was the most difficult by far. Our daily mileage was cut in half as we were able to manage about 10 miles per day.
Day 1 – Mount Moosilauke – 13 miles
We entered the park around 8 in the morning. Our plan for the day was 16 miles going over Moosilauke mountain. Moosilauke begins with a 4000-foot climb that feels nearly vertical. As we gained elevation we entered the alpine zone, and went above tree line. The top of the mountain was shrouded in fog, but we still felt a rush of excitement that comes with completing such a difficult climb.
It was extremely cold and windy on top of the mountain and we didn’t waste any time in starting the descent. The hiking was strenuous and we found that we were only capable of completing 13 miles that day.
Day 2 – Mount Kinsman – 13 miles
We woke up the next day tired and sore. Kinsman mountain was next. The elevation gain looked smaller than Moosilauke and we hoped to make it another 13 miles into Lincoln, NH. First stop was another milestone on our hike, the 1800 mile mark!
The hike over Kinsman was more difficult than I was prepared for and the hike down was treacherous and slippery. After many falls, curses, and threats to quit the trail we made it to the Lonesome Lake hut and were treated to this view.
The huts that speckle White Mountain National Forest are staffed and have running water, but are very remote. Weekly, staff members hike up supplies weighing more than 50 pounds uphill for miles. As I arrived at the hut today, I got to watch a helicopter making a yearly delivery of heavier supplies that the staff couldn’t carry, and took this awesome video of the helicopter dropping fuel.
After breaking for a while at the hut we had an easier 3-mile hike, mostly downhill and caught a hitch about halfway to the town of Lincoln, walking the last 1.5 miles into town.
Day 3 – Lincoln, NH – 0 miles
Day off! We were exhausted and in need of some real food. We stuffed ourselves with veggies and got some laundry done at Chet’s place. A hostel run by a very nice guy named Chet.
I needed this day off. I was exhausted an discouraged. Food, friends, and a bit of rest was exactly what the doctor ordered.
While in town, we met up with a fellow hiking buddy named Snorlax.
Snorlax has been putting up a YouTube videos of his hike, and you can check out his channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/PrizedMouse
Day 4 – Franconia ridge – 9 miles
This is the place that you see in movies about the Appalachian Trail. One of the coolest hikes I will ever do. Don’t believe me? Check out this video.
With sweeping views for hundreds of miles, and a barren rocky landscape, this is one of the most jaw-dropping and best hikes on the East Coast.
Day 5 – Zealand Hut – ? miles
The huts in the White mountains are staffed cabins that prepare breakfast and dinner for visitors. They are very expensive but allow thru-hikers to do a work-for-stay where a few chores get you the meals leftovers and a warm place to sleep. Today we did our first work for stay at Zealand hut and were treated to a huge turkey dinner!
Days 6-8 The Presidentials!
We summited Mt Washington on our either day in the park. We were lucky to have some of the best weather possible – only a bit clearer and we were told the ocean would have been visible in the distance.
Hearing that we were thru-hikers, a member of the observatory offered us a free tour of the weather observation facilities – something that most don’t get to see.
Days 9 & 10 – onward to Maine
We finished out the Whites with some of the most difficult climbs in the park – up the Wildcats and Carter Dome. Our last day was rainy and windy, but also offered us a quick glimpse of just how bad the weather can be in these mountains.
As we reached the top of Carter Dome winds were reaching up to 50 mph, and I found it difficult to stand upright.
We now have less than 300 miles to go. We met up with Tinder, Birch, Hustle, and Flow, and along with Mac, Snorlax and I, our hiking crew is complete. Some really tough hiking still lies ahead, but now that we have made it through the Whites and we are reunited with our friends, I am confident that we can conquer anything in our way.
My eyes opened at the sound of Hustle’s alarm. I debated on whether or not I should go back to sleep. I heard Hustle starting to fidget in his hammock. I wanted to watch the sunrise too, but it was so cold out and my sleeping bag was so warm.
The recent rain had brought the temperatures unseasonably low. That night it had dipped into the low forties. Traditionally thru hikers request that their cold weather gear be sent back to them in Hanover, New Hampshire. We were still in Vermont however, and many of us had been reduced to shivering next to a campfire every evening in shorts and a t-shirt.
I could hear the sound of Hustle’s footsteps as he walked up the steps of the fire tower. I gathered my courage and threw off my warm sleeping bag. By the time I reached the base of the tower a few others had joined the march to the top.
I looked over at Mac’s tent and wondered if I should wake him up. Mac had made the poor decision of setting up his tent directly beneath the fire tower. He was probably already awake from the sound of the metal stairs clanging beneath our feet as we walked to the top. I decided to leave him alone and started to make my way up.
The sun was minutes away from rising above the line of mountains in the distance. The sunset the night before had been astounding and the sunrise was promising to be even better. We were in the Green Mountains of Vermont and for the first time in over 1000 miles we had a panoramic view of mountains, lakes, trees, and not a single town or road in sight.
We were watching as the sun first poked over the top of the mountains. A “woahhh” went up by the onlookers followed by giggles. Mac made an appearance and we took pictures and videos as the sun rose.
Many went back to sleep afterwards, but Mac and I decided to get an early start. It was a beautiful day and even though temperatures at night were cold, the daytime temperatures were perfect for hiking.
We summited Stratton mountain later in the afternoon and finished the day at 19 miles. We were happy to be back in the mountains, and excited to see what was to come.
Since my last update we have traveled through New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and entered Vermont!
We have reconnected with our friends Hustle, Flow, Tinder, and Birch!
Our adventures took us to a cabin in the woods called upper goose pond where we spent a whole day swimming, cooking s’mores, playing games, and relaxing.
In the next 3 states we have the most difficult terrain to look forward to, but also some of the most beautiful sights. In about 2 weeks we will be in the White mountains.
With less than 600 miles to go we are very excited to see where the rest of our journey takes us!
This week Mac and I are closing a chapter on the middle portion of our hike. From West Virginia all the way through New Jersey we spent almost every weekend visiting friends and family.
Our last planned visit was to Mac’s uncles house near Peekskill, NY. We spent two full days relaxing and enjoying the company of Mac’s family and our hiking buddies Hustle and Flow.
Earlier this week we passed by mile marker 1300 and are very close to 1400. That mean that we are almost 2/3 of the way through the trail.
We crossed the Delaware river and found New Jersey to be a very nice section of trail. On our first day in NJ we saw a bear cub, porcupine, bunnies, a flock of wild turkeys and a rattlesnake!
We are preparing to enter New England and rejoin the mountains. Even though we still have about 2 months of hiking ahead of us, it feels like we are entering the final stretch of our journey. Many difficult sections lay ahead of us including the White mountains and the 100 mile wilderness. A common saying for north bound hikers is that once you hit the Whites is “80 percent of the trail is done, but only 20 percent of the effort.”
Even though we are getting closer to the end, it may be safer to say that the real hike is just beginning.